{"id":9327,"date":"2023-03-16T13:20:42","date_gmt":"2023-03-16T11:20:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/?p=9327"},"modified":"2023-03-16T13:20:42","modified_gmt":"2023-03-16T11:20:42","slug":"kibrisin-mutfagindan-aziz-guven","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/?p=9327","title":{"rendered":"K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n Mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan – Aziz G\u00fcven"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ya\u015famakta oldu\u011fumuz \u00fclkenin unutulmaya y\u00fcz tutmu\u015f k\u00fclt\u00fcrel de\u011ferlerini dosya konusu yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z dergimizin bu sayfas\u0131n\u0131 K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n geleneksel mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne ve bu k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc olu\u015fturan baz\u0131 yemek \u00f6rneklerine ay\u0131rd\u0131k; yeniden hat\u0131rlamak ve unutulmalar\u0131na izin vermemek i\u00e7in\u2026 D\u00fcnden bug\u00fcne K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc olu\u015fturmu\u015f olan yemeklerin i\u00e7erisinde, bug\u00fcn ya\u015f\u00e7a daha b\u00fcy\u00fck ku\u015fak insan\u0131m\u0131z a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan hen\u00fcz unutulmam\u0131\u015f olanlar mevcut olsa da di\u011fer yandan yeni nesillerin belki de hi\u00e7 duyup bilmedi\u011fi, ya da en iyi ihtimalle art\u0131k unutmalar\u0131na ramak kalanlar\u0131n da var oldu\u011funu s\u00f6ylemek \u00e7ok yanl\u0131\u015f olmayacakt\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcn ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z ada yar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc, Anadolu-T\u00fcrk mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn devam\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcndedir; ancak bu \u00f6zelli\u011fini tamamen Anadolu mutfa\u011f\u0131na indirgemek de do\u011fru de\u011fildir. Her ne kadar Anadolu mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan bir\u00e7ok iz ta\u015f\u0131sa da K\u0131br\u0131s geleneksel mutfa\u011f\u0131, bu co\u011frafyan\u0131n etkisi alt\u0131nda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 Venedik, Ceneviz, Arap, \u0130talyan, \u0130ngiliz gibi imparatorluklar\u0131n ve devletlerin yemek geleneklerini ta\u015f\u0131yan, kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc bir \u00e7e\u015fit Akdeniz mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne sahiptir. Bu k\u00fclt\u00fcr ise kendine has iklimi, denizi, tarihi, k\u00fclt\u00fcrel zenginlikleri, tar\u0131m\u0131, bitki \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fc, fauna ve floras\u0131 gibi bir\u00e7ok \u00f6zelli\u011fi ile tipik bir Akdeniz \u00fclkesi olan K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n, tarihsel ve k\u00fclt\u00fcrel de\u011fi\u015fikliklerle beraber sosyal ya\u015famla bir b\u00fct\u00fcn olu\u015fturan k\u00fclt\u00fcrel mozai\u011finin bir yans\u0131mas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

\u00dczerine bir\u00e7ok kitap ve makalenin yaz\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n geleneksel mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc ve \u00f6zellikle de bu k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc olu\u015fturan yemeklerini elinizde tutmakta oldu\u011funuz derginin sayfalar\u0131na s\u0131\u011fd\u0131rmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak \u015f\u00fcphesiz ki m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fildir. Yaz\u0131y\u0131 yazabilmek i\u00e7in yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m ara\u015ft\u0131rmalarda, orta ya\u015f grubuna mensup nesilden biri olmama ra\u011fmen, ismini okuyunca hat\u0131rlam\u0131\u015f oldu\u011fum, hatta baz\u0131lar\u0131 daha \u00f6nce ad\u0131n\u0131 hi\u00e7 duymad\u0131\u011f\u0131m yemeklerle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fm\u0131\u015f olmaktan dolay\u0131, yaz\u0131ma bu yemekler aras\u0131ndan unutulmu\u015f veya unutulmaya y\u00fcz tutmu\u015f olabilece\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcklerimle devam edece\u011fim.<\/p>\n

\u00c7orbalardan \u2018Ovmaca\u2019<\/b><\/p>\n

K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck hamur teknesine istenilen miktarda un konur, biraz su ilave edilir ama hamur haline gelecek kadar yo\u011frulmaz. Ellere yap\u0131\u015fmayacak \u015fekilde kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131r. Bu i\u015fleme, b\u00fct\u00fcn undan nohut b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde hamur par\u00e7ac\u0131klar\u0131 elde edilinceye kadar devam edilir. \u0130rili ufakl\u0131 da olabilen hamur par\u00e7ac\u0131klar\u0131 kaynayan suyun i\u00e7erisine at\u0131l\u0131r ve pi\u015finceye kadar bekletilerek \u00e7orba haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f olur. Ovmaca \u00e7orbas\u0131, baz\u0131 k\u00f6ylerde rumca ad\u0131 olan \u201cDriftari\u201d \u015feklinde de an\u0131lmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Dolmalardan \u2018\u00d6k\u00fcz Dili\u2019<\/b><\/p>\n

\u00d6k\u00fcz dili, bah\u00e7elerde kendili\u011finden biten geni\u015f yaprakl\u0131 bir bitkidir. Ek\u015fimsi bir tad\u0131 vard\u0131r. Dip k\u0131sm\u0131 ise k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131-menek\u015fe renginde olup ince havu\u00e7 g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcndedir. Toplanan yapraklar iyice y\u0131kan\u0131r. Bu yapraklar\u0131n i\u00e7ine pirin\u00e7 yerine bulgur (bir\u00e7ok dolma \u00e7e\u015fidinde pirin\u00e7 kullan\u0131m\u0131 daha yayg\u0131nd\u0131r) konur. Bulgurla olu\u015fturulacak harc\u0131n geri kalan malzemeleri ise bilinen di\u011fer dolma \u015fekillerindeki gibidir. Dolmalar kaynad\u0131ktan sonra k\u0131s\u0131k ate\u015fte be\u015f dakika daha pi\u015fmeye b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r ve yo\u011furtla birlikte t\u00fcketilir.<\/p>\n

Tur\u015fulardan \u2018Girdama\u2019<\/b><\/p>\n

Yabani bir bitki olan Girdama, ovalarda yeti\u015fmekte olan \u00e7o\u011fu ota nazaran deniz kenarlar\u0131nda yeti\u015fmektedir. G\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fc kakt\u00fcs\u00fc and\u0131ran ve her \u015feridi 25-30 cm\u2019ye kadar uzayabilen birbirlerine ba\u011fl\u0131 \u015feritlerden olu\u015fan eklemlere sahiptir. Toplanan Girdamalar\u0131n, kuru ve istenmeyen par\u00e7alar\u0131 ay\u0131klan\u0131r, iyice y\u0131kan\u0131r ve buru\u015fmaya b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r. \u0130ki-\u00fc\u00e7 g\u00fcn bekletildikten sonra yeterince buru\u015fmas\u0131 i\u00e7in kaynayan su i\u00e7erisine at\u0131l\u0131p iki dakika sonra \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131l\u0131r ve s\u00fcz\u00fclmeye b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r. \u0130yice s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcnce de kavanozlara yerle\u015ftirilip \u00fczerini \u00f6rtecek kadar sirke d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcr. Girdama bitkisi yeterince tuzlu oldu\u011fundan dolay\u0131 tur\u015fu yap\u0131lacak suyuna tuz yerine sirke konur. 15 g\u00fcn i\u00e7erisinde ise yenecek k\u0131vama gelir.<\/p>\n

Yemeklerden \u2018Abudar Pilav\u0131\u2019<\/b><\/p>\n

Bir dilekte bulunanlar, dilekleri yerine gelince mevlit okuturlar ve bu mevlide kat\u0131lan ki\u015filere Abudar pilav\u0131 ikram edilir. Baz\u0131 b\u00f6lgelerde ad\u0131na \u201cAdak Pilav\u0131\u201d da denmektedir. Yeterli miktarda kabuklu mercimek al\u0131n\u0131p kaynat\u0131l\u0131r. Yeterince pi\u015fince suyu s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcr. Sonras\u0131nda tencereye al\u0131nan s\u00fcz\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f mercimeklerin i\u00e7ine ya\u011f konularak ate\u015fe vurulur. Ayr\u0131ca so\u011fan kesilip bu ya\u011fda soldurulur. \u0130stenilen k\u0131vama geldi\u011finde ise su ve tuz eklenir. Kaynamaya ba\u015flay\u0131nca, kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131n i\u00e7ine bulgur ilavesi yap\u0131larak mercimek ve bulgur \u00e7ekmeye b\u0131rak\u0131l\u0131r. Olduk\u00e7a besleyici ve lezzetli bir pilavd\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Tatl\u0131lardan \u2018A\u011f\u0131z B\u00f6re\u011fi\u2019<\/b><\/p>\n

K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fckba\u015f hayvanlar yavrulad\u0131klar\u0131nda ilk s\u00fctleri sar\u0131mt\u0131rak renktedir. Yavrular, hen\u00fcz k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck olduklar\u0131ndan bu s\u00fct\u00fcn t\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc ememezler. Hayvan sahipleri de bu s\u00fct\u00fcn fazlas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011far ve hafif ate\u015fte d\u00f6rt-be\u015f dakika \u0131s\u0131t\u0131r. Sonras\u0131nda donmaya b\u0131rak\u0131lan s\u00fcte \u201cA\u011f\u0131z\u201d denir. A\u011f\u0131z\u2019\u0131n tatl\u0131s\u0131, i\u00e7erisine \u015feker veya pekmez d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcp kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131larak yap\u0131l\u0131r. B\u00f6re\u011fi ise, i\u00e7ine \u015feker konularak kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lan a\u011f\u0131z kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n, haz\u0131rlanan hamur bezeleri yay\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra a\u00e7\u0131lan hamurun \u00fczerine ka\u015f\u0131kla s\u0131ral\u0131 \u015fekilde konulmas\u0131, ters tutulan cam bardak veya g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde tekerlekli hamur kesme aleti yard\u0131m\u0131 ile tek tek kesilerek siniye dizilmesi ve ya\u011fla k\u0131zart\u0131lmas\u0131 ile yap\u0131l\u0131r. Kapal\u0131 bir kaba konup \u00fc\u00e7-be\u015f dakika dinlendirildikten sonra ise so\u011fumu\u015f ve yumu\u015fam\u0131\u015f olan b\u00f6rekler afiyetle yenir.<\/p>\n

Yemek k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc olu\u015fturan ve bu yaz\u0131da bahsedilemeyen nice yemekleri ile gastronomi a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan olduk\u00e7a zengin bir \u00fclkede ya\u015famaktay\u0131z. Bug\u00fcn, yeni ku\u015fak insanlar nezdinde baz\u0131lar\u0131 unutulmu\u015f, \u00e7o\u011fu ise unutulmaya y\u00fcz tutmakta olan yemeklerimize dair bilgilerin gelecek nesillere aktar\u0131lmas\u0131 \u00e7ok \u00f6nemlidir; t\u0131pk\u0131 K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n folkloruna dair di\u011fer t\u00fcm de\u011ferler gibi\u2026 D\u00fcnyada gastronomi biliminin geli\u015fmesi \u00f6zellikle turizm sekt\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc \u00e7ok etkilemi\u015f, bu bilimin mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerine olan ilgiyi art\u0131rmas\u0131 ise ziyaret\u00e7ilerin \u00e7e\u015fitli \u00fclkelere yapt\u0131klar\u0131 seyahatlerin tercih sebebi haline gelmi\u015ftir. Gastronomi sekt\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcn geli\u015fmesi, ayr\u0131ca, \u00fclkelerin geleneksel mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerinin modern sunumu ve\/veya farkl\u0131 farkl\u0131 \u00fclkelerin mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerinin modern tekniklerle birle\u015ftirilmesini (f\u00fczyon mutfak) do\u011furmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

Gastronomi bilimi, \u00fclke mutfaklar\u0131n\u0131n tan\u0131t\u0131m\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan pek tabi ki olumludur; ancak di\u011fer yandan ticarile\u015fen kapitalist d\u00fcnyada, g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn pop\u00fcler f\u00fczyon mutfak mant\u0131\u011f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda geleneksel mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerinin unutulmaya y\u00fcz tutma tehlikesi de yads\u0131namaz bir ger\u00e7ektir. Bu tehlike ise bir yandan gelenekseli modern ile birle\u015ftirirken di\u011fer yandan da geleneksele ait k\u00fclt\u00fcrel bilginin bir miras olarak korunmas\u0131 ve deyim yerindeyse m\u00fcfredatsal bir disiplinle \u00f6\u011fretilerek gelecek nesillere aktar\u0131lmas\u0131 ile ortadan kalkabilir.<\/p>\n

Kaynaklar:<\/b><\/p>\n

O\u011fuz M. Yorganc\u0131o\u011flu, K\u0131br\u0131s T\u00fcrk Folkloru, Sayfa 58, 64, 71, 78, 83<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Ya\u015famakta oldu\u011fumuz \u00fclkenin unutulmaya y\u00fcz tutmu\u015f k\u00fclt\u00fcrel de\u011ferlerini dosya konusu yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z dergimizin bu sayfas\u0131n\u0131 K\u0131br\u0131s\u2019\u0131n geleneksel mutfak k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcne ve bu k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc olu\u015fturan baz\u0131 yemek \u00f6rneklerine<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":9328,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[40,67,9,42,1],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2023-03-16-at-09.51.07-1.jpeg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4eHWX-2qr","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9327"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/15"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9327"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9327\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9329,"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9327\/revisions\/9329"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/9328"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9327"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9327"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/baraka.cc\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9327"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}